Trip Reports

Up To Date (02-Jan-2002-16-40):
4:40 PM local time, Wednesday, January 2 (0940 Jan. 2 UTC) 07 49 S 098 21 E. Temp. 85, Humidity 61%, Cloud Cover 0%. At anchor, Chalong Bay, Phuket Island, Thailand.

Warm greetings from the crew of Maverick.

Well with this missive we've pretty much got you up to date now. In this missive there'll be a brief description of our visit to Batam, Indonesia, Singapore, and the passage through the Strait of Malacca to Phuket.

The Nongsa Point Marina, across from Singapore and still in Indonesia, is really a resort. It's not much of a boat place. No one there knows anything about boats and there are no shops or repair facilities. They have fuel, water and ice, and that's it. It's also the most viciously rolly marina we've ever been to, and shredded a couple of our dock lines. Other than that, there's really nothing to say about it.

For about $13 US, you can take a half hour ferry ride from Nongsa to Singapore. You're leaving a country and entering another, so each passage requires documents and there are security checkpoints. But this inconvenience is worth it for the vast difference in price between Nongsa and Raffles Marina in Singapore, one of the most luxurious marinas you'll ever see. There are other choices around Singapore, but they are really no more convenient to the city than Nongsa, and for that matter, neither is Raffles.

Singapore is by far the biggest city on our itinerary and, with apologies to those who have visited there and have fond memories, I found it among the least interesting places we've seen. There's nothing really wrong with it as far as big cities go. But I found it telling that every cab driver informed us that you could easily see everything of note in two days. You'd never hear that in San Francisco or New York. I don't know if it's true, but we spent three days there, mostly dealing with repairs and boat parts, and didn't really feel as though there were a lot of things we missed. Maybe the big hotels are the attraction, but we didn't see them.

The passage from Singapore to Phuket, up the Strait of Malacca and along the west coast of Malaysia, was completely free, as we've mentioned, of its advertised horrors. We saw some impressive lightning but hazards from humans were not to be found. Most of the sail was a close reach with some current help. We made the trip, a little less than 600 miles, in exactly four days, and this includes dodging the shipping traffic around Singapore.

Chalong Bay, where we are now anchored on the southeast coast of Phuket, is shallow and a bit rolly. There are about twenty-five cruisers here, but many of these are going no further west or are local cruising boats. In the next couple of weeks we will be trying to find out who's going to Sri Lanka and talk about our strategy for piracy, corruption, etc. There's a real horror story, actually a series of horror stories, on the web about these subjects by a cruiser who went through last year at See the postings for March 25 and on. We'll be trying to determine to what extent his experience is typical.


(1) Saw CNN's depiction of the attacks by the Dayak on the Madurans on their round up of the year's biggest news stories. The Dayak were indeed carrying blowpipes and swords, and it looked pretty grim.

(2) On a lighter note, I think the folks in Borneo play VCDs, not DVDs.

(3) In answer to your queries, earlier in the voyage Ship's Lensman Terry Shrode contributed some of the photographs, but since Fiji, the Captain has been solely responsible for those out of focus and poorly lit images. They don't teach photography at Captain's School. I use an Olympus D-460 Zoom 1.3 megapixel camera. Today of course I could get twice the camera for half the cost of what I paid a year ago.

(4) Audio sample of gamelan band is now available for downloading on our website,

PS to my brother and sister, Anne, Elizabeth, Bill, Bob, Barry, Michael and Terry, Peter, McEntee, Mac, Dr. Frank, Steve, Emmy and Eric, Jim T., and the many others who've written very, very kind and supportive holiday greetings: thanks very much and back at ya. I say others because there's been some confusion surrounding the loss of the computer and using internet cafes instead. I'm pretty positive we got all your messages, as Theresa is very diligent about forwarding them, but I don't have them all on the boat to refer to. Keep those cards and letters coming, email style, to

PS to Sally: We asked a couple of people about the "wet market" but they didn't know about it, so whatever it is, we didn't see it

PS to Tom and Sharon: couldn't locate Camelot to tender your apologies and goodwill purchase. Chalong Bay is shallow as I mentioned, and you'd remember the very prominent "Jimmy's Lighthouse" as a landmark.

PS to Hank: Couldn't locate Beau Jour.

Next report from this location: What Terry Missed

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